You can get some really pretty embroidery scissors but the main thing is for them to be sharp.  Only use them for cutting your yarn or threads, if you use them for anything else it will make them blunt very quickly.  If you have little ones around Thread Clippers with lids can be handy making sure they are kept safe.

Some of the patterns use buttons for pupils, nostrils or other features so it is handy to have an assortment of buttons but the size and colour of the buttons I have used are stated on each pattern.

When it comes to putting the hats together and holding different parts in place I find 2” (50mm) T pins easier to use however any pins will do.

My hats are made in a few parts and brought together so holders can come in handy with some of the patterns with legs, tails etc.  When you have knitted one part of the work you can slip it on to a holder and it will keep your work secure until you are ready.

Each of our patterns has a difficulty rating which is stated on the patterns and in the description so you know which hats you could make with your experience.

The ratings are:

Basic/Beginner 

If you have never knitted before and ready to learn these are the projects for you.  You will need to learn how to cast on and cast off. Learn how to do a knit (k) and purl (p) stitch and perhaps a basic increase (kfb) and decrease (k2tog) stitch too. These patterns will be in stocking stitch (st st)  or garter stitch (g-st).

Easy/Beginner

Still keeping it easy. These projects are for those who have learnt the basics and ready to introduce simple stitch patterns, basic colour work and some shape work.

Intermediate

The basics have been mastered and ready for something a bit more intricate, these patterns use colourwork in intarsia and/or stranded knitting.  These patterns will use advanced shaping and may introduce lacework

Complex

These patterns are for advanced knitters who can complete complex stitch patterns. With complicated colourwork and a variety of techniques for shaping.

Tension is the number of stitches and rows knitted over 4 inches (10cm).  The Tension stated in the pattern will achieve the tested results for the size and shape of the pattern.  If you knit at a different tension your hat will be bigger or smaller than inttended.

In this photo the tension is: 10sts & 15 rows = 4” (10cm) in st st using 7mm needle

This means using a 7mm needle and knitting in stocking stitch (knit one row, purl one row, repeat) over 4 inches (10cm) we have 10 stitches across and 16 rows.

If you have fewer stitches and rows over 4” (10cm) you will need to increase the needle size to get the desired results.  If you have more, you will need to decrease your needle size.

It is always recommended that before you start a project you knit a test swatch to check the tension.

Garter Stitch (g-st) is the easiest technique to master and common in knitting patterns.  Simply use the knit stitch to knit each row. Or purl each row if the pattern says to do so.

G-st is reversible so the work will look the same on each side with flat wavy bumps.

Stocking stitch (st st) is the most common knitting stitch used in patterns. Knit the first row, purl the second row and repeat.

On the right side, the stitches form a “V” shape and on the wrong side wavy bumps similar to garter stitch.

The Wrong Side (WS) will be inside and hidden.

Stitches will have a different look depending on the side.

The WS is your “messy side”, the side you don’t want people to see. If you are working with colour changes you want to ensure your strands are passed on the WS.

If my designs require intarsia or stranded knitting technique the pattern will have a colour chart.

These are read from the bottom up. Odd rows are read right to left. Even rows are read left to right.

The charts are in stocking stitch (unless stated) with the odd rows a knit row and even a purl row.

They each have a key confirming the colour and any other instructions.